My Picnic in Paradise (Princeville, Hawaii)
Today I had a picnic in paradise. After a two-day book signing in Honolulu, I traveled with my mother to the north shore of Kauai for a little r & r. (There is something about the region that, although it is one of the most rainy spots in the U. S., is extremely inviting – almost energizing.)
We’re staying in a condo at the top of a steep cliff over the churning Pacific. Yesterday I’d spotted what looked like a narrow trail down the cliff face to the water. I followed the trail to its end, slipping and sliding in the mud to be rewarded for my hike with one of the most beautiful spots on earth. What I found was a tiny, secluded platform of lava rocks. To my right was a 10 foot wide white sand beach reaching into a tiny cave carved out by the sea. On the left was a natural pool carved out of the rock, a hot tub made for one that was lapped by waves. The water in front of the beach was clear as glass and I could stand on the rocks and watch the fish.
The walk back up the hill was more harrowing than I’d expected, since I managed to veer off the path and found myself lost in the rain forest – without bug repellent. I served as a feast for at least two kinds of bugs and by the time I reached the condo, I was a mess of red mud (from falling on the slippery trail) and even more red bites (I counted 49).
I told my mother that I had found the most beautiful place she would never see. I guess she took that as a challenge because my AARP-aged mother went out and bought herself a bamboo walking stick (ok, a tiki torch – hey, it isn’t like there’s an outdoor store in Princeville, HI!) and made plans to go down the trail today.
I knew the trip would be a tough one, so I packed a picnic to enjoy at the shore’s edge. We also brought towels and snorkel masks, planning to snorkel off the tiny beach.
But by the time we arrived at the path’s end, Mother Nature changed our plans. The sea was far rougher than the day before and the water that had been like turquoise glass the day before was now covered with curls of white foam. And the hot tub in which I’d pictured myself relaxing was assaulted by crashing waves.
We knew we’d headed down the trail shortly after high tide and so we though that if we allowed the tide to recede, we might at least have an opportunity to splash in the natural bath.
I told my mom I had a great game to pass the time while we waited on the tide. I pulled a 375ml bottle of orange-colored sweet Muscat out of my little cooler, pulled out the cork and proceeded to take a swig. I passed the bottle to my mother who couldn’t stop laughing at this strange clash of cultures with which I’d presented her.
The wine, Muscat de St. Jean de Miervois Les Petit Grains, was like nectar. Its scent was of orange blossoms and honey. Its flavors were of apricots and citrus with a faint minerality that paired beautifully with the salty-sweet taste of the sea spray in the air. Its texture was like heavy syrup but despite its weight the wine was refreshing.
(I should mention that the wine had been carried to Kauai in my luggage. I know any of you who have ever traveled to the North Shore are wondering where I found such a treasure – the region, fabulous as it is, is not exactly a wine lover’s Mecca. You see, the wine was actually my assignment for the “Wine of the Week” at novusvinum.com, a Gayot publication. Sometimes I’m unable to turn in my work in advance, so I take the bottle with me to taste and review while I travel. This is definitely the most unique of circumstance in which I reviewed a wine, but what can I say? I was feeling the aloha spirit!)
I grabbed from my bag a wedge of gooey-ripe Humbolt Fog goat cheese and furikake lavosh (translation thick crackers topped with green seaweed sprinkles). We also split an apple banana, those super-sweet mini bananas hard to find on the Mainland.
I knew the thick, sweet wine would make a delightful partner for one of my favorite cheeses, but I was surprised to find that the wine made the banana taste even more delicious, (or maybe it was that the banana made the wine taste even more delicious). As wonderful as they were, the foods and drink could never top the scenery as we enjoyed our picnic in our private cove, we both reflected on how lucky we were to have been presented with this one-of-a-kind picnic in paradise.
Drinking Muscat in Paradise
Hidden Cave