serves 4
1 package fresh cheese or spinach tortellini
1 bunch Chinese broccoli
4 medium morel mushrooms, brushed, trimmed and thinly sliced
salt & white pepper
1 shallot, finely chopped
1/4 c fresh lemon juice (approx. the juice of 1 small/medium lemon)
1/2 c Chardonnay or other dry, white wine
8 oz unsalted butter, chilled
salt to taste
4 tbsp grated Pecorino
4 turkey meatballs (optional)

1. Put your pasta water on the stove and bring to a boil. (If the rest of the meal isn’t ready by the time the water is boiling, just turn it down but keep it at the ready. This will ultimately save you time.)
2. Wash and trim the Chinese broccoli. Cut into 1″ lengths.
3. Steam the broccoli in 1 tbsp water for about 4 minutes, until it is vibrant green and starting to get tender. Reserve to a plate and discard any remaining water.
4. Heat a non-stick saute pan coated with cooking spray. Add the morels and cook, tossing lightly, for 1 minute. Add the broccoli and cook for an additional minute. Reserve.
5. Return the saute pan to medium-high heat. Combine the shallots, lemon juice and white wine. Bring to a simmer and simmer until the mixture has reduced to about 1 tbsp, (4-5 minutes). While it is simmering, cut the butter into 1/2″ cubes. Make sure it remains cold–this is the secret to a nice, thick, glossy sauce (return to refrigerator if needed).
6. Add tortellini to the boiling pasta water and cook according to package instructions (generally about 3 minutes).
7. While the pasta is cooking, turn the temperature on the shallot mixture down to low and add the butter 2 chunks at a time, whisking thoroughly to incorporate. As the chunks melt, continue to add butter 2 chunks at a time, whisking constantly. You will be tempted to turn up the heat but do not rush the sauce. When you get to the last two chunks, remove the pan from the heat before whisking.
8. Once all the butter is incorporated, season with salt then remove from the hot pan. (I got distracted and left my beurre blanc in the hot pan unattended, which caused it to break slightly. Nobody wants a broken sauce!) Traditionally, you would strain out the shallots before serving a beurre blanc but I liked the rusticity they added to the final sauce and left them in for this dish.

To assemble:
Divide the pasta between four plates. Top each with 1/4 of the vegetables then drizzle with sauce. (You can also toss the whole thing in a big bowl and serve family style). Sprinkle each plate with 1 tbsp of Pecorino. I topped mine with a turkey meatball to try to add some healthy, lean protein but the meatball is completely optional.

Normally I don’t have duck fat laying around (imagine that!). But this week I found myself in the fortuitous situation of not only having some leftover fat from duck confit but I also had a pound and a half of my favorite French fingerling potatoes on the counter.

I’ve offered my recipe for my first experiment with duck fat potatoes below. Were they life-changing potatoes? I always love tender French fingerlings straight from the market. These potatoes have such a cream interior that they taste almost like mashed without the work (or the calories). But I can’t honestly say that roasting the potatoes in duck fat is that far superior to a less artery clogging olive or grape seed oil. My favorite way to cook a potato has always been at the bottom of a pan coated with cooking spray, topped with a bone-in, skin-on chicken breast. The potatoes slow cook as the chicken roasts, the drippings flavoring the potatoes similarly to those tossed in duck fat but far more intensely. Perhaps next time I’ll share that recipe with you.

Potatoes Roasted in Duck Fat

1 1/2 lb french fingerling potatoes, skin on
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
2 tbsp duck fat
generous pinch smoked salt

1. Heat oven to 425 degrees.
2. Slice the potatoes in half lengthwise. Place in a large mixing bowl with garlic. Toss with the duck fat to thoroughly coat then season generously with smoked salt.
3. Place potatoes cut side down on a tray and cover with foil.
4. Roast for 20 minutes in the middle of oven.
5. Remove potatoes from oven and flip them over so that the cut side is facing up. Return to oven, uncovered and cook for an additional 15 minutes, until potatoes are soft and edges are crisp.

That’s how I came up with the radish-avocado picnic sandwich. The sandwich is actually a variation on the summer specialty from my new cookbook, Romancing the Stove. The original is a Tomato Avocado Picnic Sandwich, which I recommend as a perfect romantic weekend food). But, served open-faced so all the colors of spring shine, I think I might actually like the radish variation better than the original! Try it with radishes in spring and tomatoes in summer then you be the judge.

makes 1 sandwich

1 slice whole grain bread (I like a bread that is laced with seeds)
1/2 – 1 tsp butter
1 rounded tbsp chopped avocado
1-2 breakfast radishes (depending on size), sliced in half lengthwise
salt & black pepper

1. Lightly toast the bread then thinly spread with butter while the toast is still hot. (The amount of butter you use depends on the size of your bread slice.)
2. Spread the avocado on top of the butter. I know, it might sound like overkill but trust me, it tastes better with both butter and avocado.
3. Top with the radish slices and sprinkle with a pinch of salt and pepper.

Enjoy the taste of spring.

Annette gave me a choice: fried or sauteed. (Since saute is much easier, I went with that option.) Whichever cooking method you use, Annette’s filling is the same:

squash blossom filling

Thoroughly mix the ricotta and egg. Gently fold in the chives and zest then season with salt and pepper. Scoop the mixture into a sandwich-sized Ziplock bag.

Gently wash and dry 20-24 squash blossoms. (We actually made a dozen and froze the rest of the filling for later.)

filling the blossoms

While you’re stuffing the blossoms, you can be heating the oil in a heavy saute pan. Annette used a neutral oil to allow the delicate flavor of the squash shine. (Good choices include grape seed, soybean or walnut oil.) Being the consummate chef, Annette merely eyeballed the oil but I’d hazard a guess that she used about 2 tbsp. (Use enough to thoroughly coat the bottom of your pan.)

Heat your oil over medium/medium high heat. The oil should be heated to that point just before it begins to bubble.

the oil should look this hot

perfectly cooked squash blossoms

The blossoms are best when they’re hot. Just don’t grab them when they’re too hot or you’ll burn your tongue. (Bad for potential future kissing sessions.)

But spring has sprung and this Sunday I heard the market calling. And among the rainbow of seasonal offerings, I found a vendor offering the first of the season’s pea tendrils. I adore pea tendrils for their little corkscrew stems and tiny flower buds clinging to the vines. But mostly, I think, I enjoy these tender greens because the window of opportunity to enjoy their unique flavor only comes once a year.

So, of course, I filled my basket with a tangle of the greens and raced home to make brunch.

Garlicky Pea Tendrils

1/2 lb pea tendrils
1 tbsp olive oil*
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
salt and pepper to taste
1 tbsp cold water

1. Thoroughly wash the pea tendrils (I find these greens like to attract bugs).
2. Heat the oil in a large saute pan. Add the garlic and saute until soft, about one minute.
3. Add the pea tendrils and saute for an additional 2-3 minutes. (The leaves should still be vibrant green but soft.)
4. Season with salt and pepper then remove pan from heat and mix in the water before transferring the tendrils to a serving dish.

*I read that Alice Waters sautes her pea tendrils in duck fat. Although it sounds delicious I didn’t happen to have duck fat on hand. But if you have a spare jar laying around, you might want to try it!

I served my pea tendrils with scrambled eggs, bacon and toast but they make a delicious side to almost any dish.

The Menu
tarragon chicken salad with first of the season black, seedless grapes
tiny pasta purses with carrot top pesto, chevre and black forest bacon
whole wheat apple bread pudding
summertime cheese plate with grilled cherries, eggplant compote and grilled baguette slices (recipes below)

For the cheese plate:
I wanted to make something a little more sophisticated than just a couple blocks of cheese and I really wanted to show off a bit of the market’s July produce. So to my raw, goat’s milk cheddar, I added a few accoutrements I hoped would tempt the eyes as well as the tongue.

I’d had a burning desire to play with grilled cherries ever since a friend texted me from a restaurant to tell me she having a hot, grilled cherry orgasm. Grilling diminishes the cherry’s tartness slightly and adds earthy char. So I grilled the bread to mimic that charred note and help the fruit blend a little better with the sharp, tangy notes of the cheese. To make the eggplant work on the same plate as the cherries, I added thyme, an herb that pairs pleasantly with both cherries and eggplants. And I squeezed in a little lemon juice at the last minute to give the compote a similar tang to both the fruit and the cheese.
Serves 6 as a side dish or dessert course

6-8 oz goat’s milk cheddar

For the eggplant compote:
1 lb japanese eggplant
2 tbsp olive oil
1 sm yellow onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1 tsp lemon juice
salt to taste

Heat oven to 325 degrees.

Cut eggplant lengthwise. Put cut side up in a small baking dish and drizzle with 1 tbsp olive oil. Cook until tender, approx 25 min.

Let eggplant rest until cool enough to touch. Scoop flesh from eggplants and discard skins. Roughly chop. Remove thyme from sprigs, mince, then add to eggplant.

Heat remaining olive oil in a saute pan. Saute onion and garlic for 1 minute. Add in the eggplant and thyme and lemon juice. Season with salt to taste. Saute for about 30 seconds.

Transfer to serving dish and cool to room temperature.

For the grilled cherries and bread:
12 black cherries
1 baguette sliced on the diagonal
Heat grill to medium-high. Add cherries and bread slices to the grill. Grill cherries for about 2 minutes then flip to the other side. Grill bread about 1 minute per side. Add both to cheese board and allow cherries to cool for at least 5 minutes before serving.

That’s why this week, my farmers’ market recipe is a simple, peak of season summer salad.

makes 2 servings
2 small carrots
1 persian cucumber
5 breakfast radishes
1/4 c sliced sweet onion like maui or texas sweet
1 tsp dijon
2 tsp red wine vinegar
2 tsp flax seed oil (you can use a neutral oil like grape seed instead)
salt to taste
4 basil leaves

Slice vegetables paper thin using a food processor or (as I prefer) a mandolin.

In a small bowl, mix together dijon and vinegar. Whisk in the oil, (I just do this with a fork). Toss the dressing with the vegetables. Season with salt to taste.

Chiffonade the basil and top salad with the basil ribbons.

Serve immediately.

This week I didn’t exactly reinvent the wheel but for my Sunday brunch I picked up morels(!), komatsuna (a Japanese green similar to spinach but more herbal, less tannic), a candy onion (sweeter than vidallia but with the bite of a typical yellow onion), duck eggs and some black cherries. Oh, and a baguette from my favorite bakery.

While I was cooking, I decided to experiment with the rich, green fluff preventing my carrots from fitting in the refrigerator’s vegetable drawer. I made a quick carrot top pesto as a dip, helping to make use of the overabundance of mini spring veggies in my market basket. (And to help with space conservation in my fridge!)

Scrambled Duck Eggs Over Morels & Komatsuna with Grilled Cherries and Toast
serves 2

1 1/4 tbsp butter
2 tbsp chopped candy onion
5 fat morels, trimmed and quartered lengthwise
1 tsp fresh tarragon, finely chopped
1 1/2 c fresh komatsuna leaves (or fresh, baby spinach)
2 duck eggs
1/4 tsp fresh chives, finely chopped
salt to taste

Crack eggs into a small bowl and thoroughly whisk. Set aside.

Melt 1/2 tsp butter in a small saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion and saute until soft. Add morels, season with salt and cook until mushrooms begin to brown, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in tarragon.

While mushrooms are cooking, add komatsuna with a splash of water to another pan. Cover and cook over medium heat until greens are limp, about 2 minutes.

Divide the komatsuna between two plates and top with mushrooms. Return mushroom pan to heat and add remaining 3/4 tbsp butter. Turn heat to medium low and add eggs. Stir constantly until eggs are cooked, approximately 4-5 minutes. Season with salt if desired. (You will need no seasoning if using salted butter!) When eggs are about set, stir in chives, remove from heat and divide between two plates, topping the mushrooms and greens. Serve with toast and a side of grilled cherries.

To grill cherries, wash a handful of black cherries. Heat grill to medium high and grill cherries for 4-5 minutes, turning once, until grill marks show on both sides. Let cherries cool for a few minutes before serving as their sugar will become burning hot.

These cherries are super sexy and can be served any time of day, as a snack, with an aperitif, accompanying grilled pork, etc. Use your imagination!

Vegan Carrot Top Pesto

I never know what to do with the tops of my carrots. I hate to waste them but I don’t really love their taste on its own. So I tried making a carrot top pesto, which is totally vegan, easy and surprisingly good!

1/4 c unsalted walnuts
1 tbsp + 1/4 c olive oil
1 tbsp onion, roughly chopped
1 bulb garlic, roughly chopped
1 bunch carrot tops, thoroughly washed and roughly chopped
smoked salt

Toast walnuts in pan or oven until golden. Set aside.

heat 1 tbsp olive oil over medium heat. Add onion and saute until soft. Add garlic and saute an additional minute before adding in carrot tops and a pinch of smoked salt. Cook until carrot tops wilt, about 1 minute.

Transfer to blender, adding toasted walnuts and 1 tbsp water. Blend, adding olive oil in a slow stream until mixture becomes a coarse paste (the texture of pesto!) You may not need all the olive oil or you may need additional.

Season with additional smoked salt to taste.

Serve as a dip, salad dressing or over pasta.

Chile-Rubbed, Grilled Chicken Salad with White Corn, Radish, New Potatoes and Avocado with Fresh Garlic Vinaigrette
Strawberry Bread Pudding
Apriums with Fresh Strawberry Sauce

For the salad, just rub boneless, skinless chicken breasts with your favorite rub (or marinate in your favorite seasoning). Grill and chill. Boil 2 new potatoes per person until a knife slides easily through. Allow potatoes to cool before quartering. From the market, select the best lettuce of the season–I chose red leaf and baby butter lettuce–then garnish with the season’s finest vegetables. (This could be anything from pea shoots, scallions and fava beans to grilled asparagus and heirloom tomatoes.) Top with your favorite vinaigrette, or just top with a splash of flax seed oil (loaded with mood-lifting omega-3’s), a squeeze of lemon and pinch of salt.

For the bread pudding, I followed cookbook author Chrysta Wilson’s recipe, only I reduced the soy milk to 1 cup and replaced the apple with 1 c sliced strawberries.

Fresh Strawberry Sauce Recipe

3/4 c very ripe strawberries, chopped
1 tbsp sugar
3 tbsp warm water

Put all ingredients in blender and blend on high until smooth. Chill until serving. (Adjust sugar depending on your preference and ripeness of your berries.)

Drizzle over fresh or grilled fruit, top ice cream, oatmeal, lemon tarts, pound cake or plain yogurt.

I decided on traditional fare: organic eggs scrambled with butter with my favorite French fingerling potatoes simply roasted. To lighten the meal, I added a salad of shaved fennel with onions, pomegranate and tangerines as well as a salad of gorgeous strawberries, (I LOVE that the West Coast has an autumnal strawberry season in November), a pineapple (not purchased at the farmers’ market), kiwi and Buddha’s hand zest (a funky looking, Asian citrus) topped with tart, natural frozen yogurt.

I also made a smoked salmon platter. Smoked salmon is a special tradition in my family, but the fish must be hard smoked. (This was how my parents friends, the Dinkles, in Wasilla, Alaska used to do it in the smoke house in their back yard.) The salmon marinates with brown sugar and salt for a few hours then is hot smoked for several more. I use a Bradley smoker, not nearly as cool as the Dinkle’s homemade wooden smoke house but more practical. The result is something very different from traditional, fleshy, moist salmon but is much more flavorful and interesting, faintly sweet and less salty.

Since it was a birthday affair, the brunch required a cake. Only I was a little desserted out after the Thanksgiving holiday so instead we did “danishes” from Olio restaurant, made from the restaurant’s excellent pizza dough as opposed to traditional pastry and then fired in a wood oven to order. Delicious, original and yet still candle-friendly. Everything was, of course, washed down with a bottle of bubbly. It was a good birthday!